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In medieval Europe, dress codes
were sometimes imposed upon members of different layers of society through
actual laws which were spelt out in some detail. From about 1294 to the time of
the French Revolution in 1789, the people of France were expected to strictly
follow what were known as ‘sumptuary laws.’ The laws tried to control the
behaviour of those considered social inferiors, preventing them from wearing
certain clothes, consuming certain foods and beverages (usually this referred
to alcohol) and hunting game in certain areas. In
medieval France, the items of clothing a person could purchase per year was
regulated, not only by income but also by social rank. The material to be used
for clothing was also legally prescribed. Only royalty could wear expensive
materials like ermine and fur, or silk, velvet, and brocade. Other classes were
debarred from clothing themselves with materials that were associated with the
aristocracy. The French Revolution ended these distinctions.
The members of the Jacobin clubs even called themselves the ‘sans culottes’ to
distinguish themselves from the aristocracy who wore the fashionable ‘knee
breeches’.
Sans-culottes literally meant those ‘without knee
breeches’. From now on, both men and women began wearing clothing that was
loose and comfortable. The colors of France – blue, white and red – became
popular as they were a sign of the patriotic citizen. Other political symbols
too became a part of dress: the red cap of liberty, long trousers and the
revolutionary cockade pinned on to a hat. The simplicity of clothing was meant
to express the idea of equality.
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